Crossing the Plumsjoch to Pertisau
Starting in the Rißtal this tours leads first to the Plumsjoch cabin. From there you have several choices. Depending on how good in shape you are you can climb the Bettlerkarspitze and then go back to where you started or you can walk across the Mondscheinspitze and Pletzach Valley to Pertisau. Since I came to the Gernalm around noon, I decided to go for a second ascent and walked over Guetenbergalm to Pertisau. To get to the starting point at the Hagelhütte you can use the Bergsteigerbus from Lenggries and take another bus from the Achensee back to the Tegernsee. You will be rewarded with great panoramic views and a few good places to take a rest and get a snack.
differences in height:
- ascent Hagelhütte – Plumsjoch: approx. 1970 ft.
- descent: Plumsjoch – Gernalm: approx. 1640 ft.
- ascent Gernalm – Gütenberg: approx. 1640 ft.
- Abstieg Gütenberg – Pertisau: approx. 2300 ft.
walking time: 6 hours
distance: 10 miles
It was mid-September and the weather was still great. The big summer heat was gone and the cooler temperatures were perfect for hiking. So out into the nature and hop on the train to Lenggries. The hikers bus that drives to the Engalm is already waiting. I get off at the second last stop, Hagelhütte.
It’s a bit fresh, but the weather is picture perfect. At this stop there are a few cabins, that don’t look like they would be still in use as summer alps. On one side the summit of the Rosskopfspitze towers above me and to the other side I can see the Bettlerkarspitze a bit further down the road. Already here at the Hagelhütte you have several choices for your ascent. Following the signs to Hasentalalm will bring you to the Kompar or Mondscheinspitze (which is for experienced hikers only) or you walk to the Plumsalm and Plusjochhütte.
I decide to go for the last option. At first the tour leads on almost even terrain into the woods. But only a few minutes later comes a crossing where I take a right and the trail is now leading uphill in serpentines. There is fog rising over the woods which creates a somewhat mystic atmosphere.
Every now and then I get a great view of the Roßkopfspitze on the other side of the valley and the deep blue sky. This landscape does fascinate me every time I am hiking in this region. Today I am again pretty much the only one on the trail. At the Hagelhütte I did see a few people, but apparently they took other routes.
After about half an hour I am crossing a gravel road. Later on I realise that I am walking along the Bike Trail Tyrolia. On this trail I come across more people again. Luckily enough the road is wide enough for bikers and hikers. This makes this hike along this road more like an easy stroll.
The trail rises slwoly and is stretching a bit in length. To my left the mountain falls steeply into a valley. Unfortunately I don’t get good views of the canyon-like valley floor. On the other hand I come across quite a few flowers still in bloom along the road. And the first trees are showing the autumn leaves. Just behind the next turn I get a glimpse of the Bettlerkarspitze for the first time.
The last stretch before reaching the Plumsalm is a bit steeper. But again the long serpentines make this piece pretty comfortable to walk. From here the trail continues in the bright sun. Since it’s not that hot today this makes the hike rather pleasant. From time to time I can look back in the direction where I came from. The Rüderkar- and Rosskopfspitze make a great panorama.
After having completed the climb the path is becoming more even again. Only a short time later I reach another crossing. I could follow the bike trail but decide to walk along the more comfortable path leading through the woods and which is hikers only. Shortly after I see the Plumsjochhütte for the first time.
The trail meanders along a small canyon. And now I can look into the „deep“ where a little creek is running over the rocks. From time to time I look back and admire the impressive summits of Roßkopf- and Ruederkarspitze. Absolutely breathtaking.
I have seen quite a few mountain panoramas in my life, but I am deeply impressed again and again when I am standing in front of such a sight. But say for yourself, isn’t that just beautiful?
The path I am walking now is again rather even. I don’t have the feeling that I have climbed almost 2000 ft. already. The Plumsjochhütte comes into my view more often and I have to decide on which tour I will continue afterwards.
Half an hour later I quit the woods and take a last piece that is a bit steeper. Then I have reached my first destination. Here are a few cows still grazing. The bigger part of the cattle has been brought down into the valley already. I am looking forward to a fresh drink with a view.
Before I am having my drink I do have to enjoy the spectacular panorama. I kind a like those old shoes on the roof of this hut. They are filled with plants we do know from diverse rockerys. It’s late morning and I am not hungry, yet. Despite the Plumsjochhütte giving a very nice impression. At the table next to me there are two bikers playing cards. I could sit here for a bit longer.
Since I am not sure how long I still have to walk, I continue my hike. A last view back to the mountains in the Rißtal and off I go. Here on the saddle you will have to take another decision on how to continue. To the Bettlerkarspitze and the same way back or crossing the Mondscheinspitze to Pertisau. I take the third possibolity and descend straight away into the valley.
At first the road falls slowly and the view direction Achensee is not less spectacular than on the other side. But a short time afterwards the path is getting pretty steep and rocky. I am happy that I chose to ascent from the Rißtal on the other side. It’s close to toture to walk on this trail especially since you are walking in the bright sun all the time.
The panorama reveils not to be as spectacular as on the other side of the mountain but still very impressive. Interesting enough I come across more people here. Could be due to the fact that you can drive from Pertisau all the way up to the Gernalm and start the tour there. On the other hand you find a few parking spaces at the Hagelhütte. And both roads are toll roads.
To get to the Gernalm I don’t even need an hour. From far the restaurant looks inviting but somehow it seems to busy for me at the moment. I could take a rest and then walk to Pertisau in about an hour. But it is just around noon and I do need another challenge. So I take a right and climb to the summit of the Gütenberg.
The trail leeds into the woods and there to a small pond. I would love to have a refreshment now. But more than just hanging my feet into the water isn’t doable at this time. Since I don’t have a towel with me. The path winds uphill in serpentines. Again there are almost no people around. Guess that route is not spectacular enough.
Every time I come to an opening and look across to the Mondscheinsptize I think that I should have taken that route. Why didn’t I? So far I never gave in to signs saying that a trail is only for the experienced. Well, guess I have to come back next year.
Next to the trail I see some gentian and this interesting sponge-like mushroom. Looks almost like the sponges you can find in the Mediterranean. About 1.5 hours later I reach a saddle just a few feet below the summit of the Gütenberg and look down onto the pasture with the same name. And the view is once more just great. After around 3,600 ft accomplished I am content with what I have done today.
Just a few minutes later I am standig in front of the Gütenbergalm. There are quite a few people here but mostly locals. I like that. The only item on the menu is a „Jausen“. Cheese, Speck and sausage on a tray. All of it tastes great including the homemade bread. Since I like the view I stay a bit longer.
I am not sure how often the bus runs from Achensee to Tegernsee, so I finally get up and continue with the descent. A short time later I get a glimpse of the Falzthurn valley and it’s beautiful panorama. Meanwhile I am reconciled with the choice of my tour. The great Jausen and the views have their part in this.
Here you have again the choice of two ways to get down into the valley. Either you walk to the Feilalm and a gravel road. Or you take the shorter trail leading along below the Feilalm via a small path. So I am reaching the valley floor pretty fast at a parking lot just behind the crossing to the Falzthurn Valley.
From here I have to follow a paved road to Pertisau. I can’t see the lake, but get a great view of the Rofan mountains on the other side.
At this road it is again a bit more busy. Too bad the walking trail follows this road. From here it’s only a few minutes to Pertisau. I can see the first houses already. So this tour ends with a stroll through this mountain/lake village.
At least that’s what I think. It’s shortly after 4 p.m. when I reach the lake. First thing is to look for the bus stop and check the schedule. The stop is right next to the pier where the boats start for their lake cruises. I thought that the busses would run more frequently. Unfortunately that’s not the case. The Bergsteigerbus runs only once a day back to Tegernsee. Starting in Pertisau at 5 p.m. That means I do have another hour waiting time.
I could sit down in a café or a beergarden and wait. But then I have another idea. Let’s see when the next boat is sailing. The drive with the bus around the southern tip of the lake takes a while and then runs along a bypass road. A cruise over the lake would be far more spectacular and the crowning end of this hike. I am lucky. The next boat leaves in a few minutes and reaches Achensee before the bus.
So I buy a ticket and board the ship of the Achenseeschifffahrt. This way I can admire the breathtaking mountain panorama. Aboard there is café so I can sit back, have a drink and just enjoy. Awesome.
When I realised that I have to wait such a long time for the bus and therefore would return home rather late, I was a bit dissapointed. But this cruise made me get over it. Next time I am taking my swimming gear with me and go for a swim in the lake. At the Stop Scholastika I am getting of the ship. I still have half an hour before the bus departs as per schedule. So I sit down on the lakeshore and have another refreshment. The ambiance is a bit like at the Gardsee. The plane trees, the mountains, the sun. Beautiful!
Unfortunately the bus has a rather big delay and there isn’t a bench to sit down at the stop. So I am standing next to the main road and try to hitch-hike. Doesn’t work. Finally the bus arrives and makes it in time for my train in Tegernsee, so I can straight jump on the train and ride home.
Conclusion: I will hike this tour again but crossing the Mondscheinspitze then. And then I am prepared and know that I will be home a bit later than usual.